| Air heater |
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| Topics - Interior | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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I have been looking for an air heater for a while, but after having evaluated some brand new solutions (Euro 1250 for a Webasto petrol air heater) one of my friends forwarded an add for a 60’s Eberspächer BN2 air heater. Only cost me Euro 100 and it does suit the van much better. The heater came with a lot of loose bits and pieces that turned out to be useless, since the heater used to be installed in a T2 pick-up van: definitely not installed in the engine compartment, because none of the parts fitted. I must have spent ages crawling the internet for Eberspächer BN2 user manuals and/or electrical schemes which reflected my air heater… Eventually I concluded that there are 2 different types of BN2 Eberspächer air heaters: an early model (with a pressure regulator) and a later model (with a volume regulating pump). Not surprisingly I managed to get my hands on the early (and much less produced) model, which explained my utter confusion when comparing my heater with the ones described in the technical manuals. A volume regulating pump requires a different wiring set-up than a mechanical (with membranes) pressure regulator. Safety features Although the Eberspächer BN2 air heater is a product of the early 60’s, it is still a simple but smart piece of technology. It has a couple of nice safety features:
The following things have been done during rebuild of the Eberspächer BN2:
The pressure regulator requires caution during disassembly. The membranes are very fragile parts and should be checked before using the heater: if the membranes are dried out or turned rigid, they require replacement. Eberspächer does not produce spare parts any more for the BN2 model, so the second best thing is to find your self another BN2 air heater and hope for the best… Luckily only one of membranes is susceptible to drying out.
Adjustment
After you have adjusted the heater and all parts have been checked or replaced, you can install it in the engine compartment of your Volkswagen bus. Besides the preparation of the wiring you also require to prepare the fitting of the air inlet and exhaust pipes. Finding a suitable exhaust pipe proved to be a challenge, since it needs to bend around the chassis and it should not block the valve cover. The solution came in 3 pieces: a 42 millimetre straight pipe, a piece of Mazda 323 exhaust pipe fitted nicely around the chassis and finally a bend pipe to end up next to the engine's exhaust pipe. All fitted with clamps so it can be taken apart if required. There are plenty of standard solutions to connect the Eberspächer air heater to the interior. I fitted an 80mm to 2x 60mm dividing pipe from Webasto, to split the outlet into 2 separate outlets: one for the left and one for the right hand side of the interior. The 60mm hoses and insulation are also made by Webasto. Make sure you drill two holes of (at least) 65 mm into the engine compartment firewall to make sure you can fit the hoses with insulation. I made two outlets underneath my rear bench to connect the hoses to and to make sure the hot air would come out as low and as much in the centre of the bus as possible for optimal heating. Documentation
Costs
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| Last Updated ( Wednesday, 23 June 2010 ) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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